As with most DIY guides and tradesmen it’s the trade terminology and techno speak that can become sometimes more problematic than the actual application! That’s why we at handledesign have endeavoured to interpret these, sometimes foreign sounding terms, into something that can, hopefully, be understood.
1. Automatic Deadlocking: This is on a nightlatch and prevents the tongue from pushing back while the door is still closed. (As sometimes seen in films were the intruder gains entry with a credit card. This will not happen with Automatic Deadlocking).
2. Backplate: A plate, usually rectangular, onto which handles and knobs are attached.
3. Backset: This is the distance from the edge of the door to the centre of the keyhole or handle (spindle)
4. Bathroom Lock: An internal two bolt mortice lock, where the deadbolt is thumb turn operated.
5. Bathroom/Privacy Furniture: These are lever handles mounted on plates fitted with a thumb-turn inside to operate a bathroom lock. They are available is all styles to match the door furniture selected. The outside plate incorporates a release device in order to allow the thumb-turn to be operated in an emergency. These are sometimes handed, i.e., right or left hand fixed because the outside and inside plates differ, therefore it is essential to identify which hand is required. Some have coloured indicator panels to designate whether occupied or not, others are blank. Care must be taken to identify the make of the bathroom lock to be used and thus, the correct size of spindle, i.e. 5mm or 8mm. When round rose furniture is used with a bathroom/privacy lock the thumb-turn and indicator with emergency release is on a separate rose which should suite with the lever rose.
6. Case: The metal part of the lock or latch containing the workings.
7. Centres: This is the distance between the centre of the keyhole and the hole for the handle spindle.
8. Cylinder Latch: A lock for an entrance door (rim or mortice) which is opened by a key from outside and by a knob/turn from the inside. It can usually be set with the latch in the permanently open or shut (latched) position by catch (hold back) button on the inside face of the lock.
9. Cylinder Pull: The attachment round a cylinder (usually on a rim cylinder latch) to enable a door to be pulled closed.
10. Dead latch: This is a latch, either rim type or mortice type, which secures the door closed, but can be withdrawn by key from outside and by knob or handle from inside. Latch tongue cannot be pushed back (credit card trick) once the door is in the closed position
11. Deadlock: This is a standard mortice lock, which is set into the edge of a door that has a square ended bolt operated by a key or sometimes by a thumb-turn on the inside.
12. Deadlocking: A locking mechanism that prevents a latch or bolt being operated without a key whilst the door is closed.
13. Escutcheon: This is the surround plate for a keyhole.
14. Follower: A square hole within the latch or lock mechanism through which the spindle fits (before attachment to the handle or knob). As the handle /knob is turned, the spindle turns the follower and the latch is operated.
15. Forend or Faceplate: The face of the lock/latch. The part that is visible once the mechanism is sunk (morticed) into the door.
16. Hand: Refers to right and left handed opening. For example – a door is right hand hung if a person opens the door towards themselves with the hinges on their right. You must ensure that the sloping edge (bevel) of the latch is also facing to the right.
17. Keep: This term is used for the striking plate fitted to the door frame which takes the lock bolt or latch tongue.
18. Latch: A door fastening that uses a bevelled metal tongue, operated by a door handle of knob and controlled by a spring which engages when the door is closed, without a key being turned.
19. Lever: This is the part inside the lock which is moved by the key. It allows the lock to be operated. Usually, more levers the lock has the higher the security. Most insurance companies no require a 5 lever lock to be fitted to all external doors.
20. Lever Handle: A lever mechanism used to operate a latch or lock system. There are two types (a) Sprung – handle returns to the original position via its own internal mechanism. (b) Unsprung- There is no spring system within the handle and is used with a heavier sprung latch or lock to compensate.
21. Mortice: A slot cut into the door to accommodate the lock or latch system.
22. Night Latch: A rim or mortice operated locking system that allows key access from the outside and a small; knob (snib) to either lock the system or hold the latch bolt back.
23. Pass: Where two or more locks are worked by the same key.
24. Roller Bolt: A sprung roller bolt system that engages with the door frame through a spring lo25. Rose:aded mechanism when the door is pushed closed.
A circular plate onto which door handles and sometimes knobs are attached.
26.Sashlock: This is a mortice lock containing a latch operated by handles and a bolt secured by a key.
27. Snib: This is a small button or switch on the case of a nightlatch which is used to hold the latch tongue back or to stop the latch being operated when closed.
28. Spindle: This is a square bar inserted through a latch which connects the handles on either side of the door.
29. Striking Plate: This is a plate fixed to the door frame with one or more bolt holes, into which the bolt or latch shoots.
30. Two – way Follower: A mechanism within a lock or latch system that allows movement to the right and left. Usually used with a knob set.
Our products are protected by the most advanced lacquer available and under normal circumstances should give many years of service. They should be cleaned with a cloth moistened with soapy water or alternatively wiped over with a soft cloth with beeswax. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY FORM OF METAL CLEANER OR AEROSOL SPRAYS.
However, after a period of time the lacquer coating, especially on external fittings, can suffer a possible breakdown. Therefore, the life of the lacquer is beyond the manufacturer’s control and cannot be guaranteed. When the lacquer coating has broken down, remove the brass fittings and coat using a soft brush with acetone thinner e.g. “Nitramores” according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Completely dry the product using a soft cloth and metal polish, such as “Brasso” or “Duraglit”. At this stage the product can either be re-lacquered or polished as and when required.
A fresh coat of lacquer may be applied, but we strongly recommend that, especially for external use, you should leave the item unlacquered.
Our quality chrome products are virtually maintenance free. However, deposits will accumulate especially on external fittings. We therefore recommend regular cleaning with a soft cloth and non-abrasive wax polish.
This will ensure the original appearance is maintained.
Stainless Brass PVD
These products have an advanced vacuum treated process and we can offer a full 25 year replacement guarantee with the Exclusive Stainless Brass Finish.
The technology involved in this process renders this surface impervious to damage in normal use including oxidation, wear and abrasion. All lacqered brass items require regular cleaning with non-abrasive wax polish.
We recommend the removal of suface dirt by dusting with a soft cloth. Stubborn stains can be removed with the use of white spirit or similar spirit based products.
Cleaning and Caring for Stainless Steel
Why Clean Stainless Steel?
Stainless Steels need to be cleaned for aesthetic considerations and to preserve corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is protected from corrosion by a thin layer of chromium oxide. Oxygen from the atmosphere combines with the chromium in the stainless steel to form this passive chromium oxide film that protects from further corrosion. Any contamination of the surface by dirt, or other material hinders this passivation process and traps corrosive agents, reducing corrosion protection. Thus some form of routine cleaning is necessary to preserve the appearance and integrity of the surface. Stainless steels are easily cleaned by many different methods. They actually thrive with frequent cleaning and, unlike some other materials, it is impossible to ‘wear out’ stainless steel by excessive cleaning. Stainless Steel performs best when clean – cleanliness is essential for maximum resistance to corrosion.
Stainless Steel Maintenance Program
All exposed stainless steel surfaces should be wiped over with a clean cloth and warm water with a mild detergent on a frequent and routine basis.
For more stubborn dirt or stains use mild, non-scratching abrasing powders such as typical household cleaners. These can be used with warm water, bristle brushes, sponges or clean cloths. For more aggressive cleaning a small amount of vinegar can be added to the powder.
Carbon steel brushes and steel wool should be avoided as they may leave particles embedded in the surface, which can lead to rusting.
Cleaning should always be immediately followed by rinsing in clean hot water and the surface then wiped completely with a dry towel.
The maximum recommendation for routine cleaning is once a month and more often in areas subject to heavy soiling or frequent use.
Where routine maintenance is considered a pre-requisite of compliance with an associated guarantee a ‘Maintenance Log’ should be kept for each installation.